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August/September 2002:

Ingredient Glossary


Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate: Ammonium salts derived from a colorless, crystalline compound made from coconut oil. Used for its foaming properties and mild acidic pH values. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate is a safe, gentle sulfate.

Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus armeniaca): High in Vitamin A and oleic acid, it is rich and nourishing.  It is helpful to skin that is dehydrated, delicate, mature, or sensitive. Apricot Kernel is good for use in skin care, massage and soap products. It's shelf life is six months to one year.   

Avocado Oil (Persea americana): Avocado oil contains protein, vitamins A, D, and E, amino acids, and lecithin.  It is highly therapeutic oil.  It softens, increases elasticity, leaves no greasy residue and moisturizes the skin.  Having exceptional cosmetic and nutritional qualities.  Avocado oil is primarily a monounsaturated oil.   In contrast, polyunsaturated oils form greater amounts of free radicals which are associated with rancidity. Avocado Oil is recommended for Skin care and soap making. It has a shelf life of up to one year.

Beeswax (Apis mellifera): Beeswax comes from the honeycomb of virgin bees. Bees process honey form the nectar and then convert it into wax. Ten pounds of honey produces one pound of wax. It has a honey like fragrance. It is used as an emulsifier and stiffener.

Carbomer: White powder that reacts with fatty particles forming thick and stable emulsions. It is mostly used as thickener and as gelling agent, like a wax.

Cetearyl Alcohol: An emulsifying wax derived from naturally occurring fatty acids from coconut oil, which forms a occlusive film to keep skin moisture from evaporating.

Cetyl Alcohol: An emollient, secondary emulsifier derived from naturally occurring fatty acids in coconut oil.

Citric Acid: Vitamin C, derived from citrus fruit. It is used commonly in hair and skincare products and many post perm ingredients to neutralize odor. Has astringent and antioxidant properties and also can be used as a stabilizer and preservative.

Cocoamidopropyl Betaine: A coconut oil, alcohol and betaine compound. A salt derived from the fatty acids of coconut oil. Betaine occurs commonly in beets and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener, foam booster and conditioner. Coconut oil is a highly saturated fat semi-solid oil derived from the kernels of coconuts. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances. Commonly used in shampoos and conditioners for its cleansing, thickening and foam boasting properties.

Cocamide DEA: Derived from coconut oil. Mild skin and hair cleanser, gives lather and assists in removal of fatty soils.

Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao): Cocoa butter is the solid fat expressed from the roasted seed of the cocoa beans that are separated during the process of making cocoa. It is highly protective and acts as a water repellant. It contains about 5 IU of vitamin E per ounce. Cocoa Butter softens and lubricates the skin. Cocoa Butter is recommended for skin care, massage and soap making. It's shelf life is up to one year.

Dimethicone: An organic silicone, derived from silica, this white powder occurs abundantly in nature. It is used as a skin protectant, emollient, and moisturizer. It provides silkiness, and is well tolerated by even the most sensitive skins. Dimethicone helps slow down moisture loss and further helps smooth fine, dry lines.

Glyceryl Stearate: Derived from natural stearic acid and glycerin. A popular emulsifier and emollient used in cosmetic preparations such as creams and lotions, providing stability as well as excellent texture.

Glycol Stearate: An emollient and an emulsifier used in lotions and shampoos to achieve a pearling effect.

Glycerin: Glycerin is a natural emollient and humectant derived from vegetable oils. It is a by-product of soap manufacturing. It is a clear colorless syrupy liquid. A humectant, and emollient it absorbs moisture from the air and, therefore helps keep moisture in whatever it is put into. Recommended for use in skin care products and soap making.

Imaidazolidinyl Urea: An anti microbial agent, used in very limited quanities.

Macadamia Nut Oil (Macadamia integrifolia): Macadamia nut oil is similar to sebum, the oil naturally produced by human skin to protect it. Is the best plant source of palmitoleic acid (an Omega 7 fatty acid). Palmitoleic acid is similar to the oil our skin produces, the production of which declines as we age. It absorbs well into the skin, is highly emollient and soothing. Macadamia Nut Oil contains magnesium and thiamin. Recommended for use in skin care and massage products and soap making. It's shelf life is six months to one year. 

Methylchloroisthiazolinone: A preservative used in personal care products.

Methylisothiazolinone: An anti-microbial preservative used in rinse-off products.

Methylparaben: Derived from the palm leaf. It is a food grade preservative used to ensure shelf life and hygienic stability. It is non-toxic and non-irritating and is effective against a wide range of bacteria and fungi.

Propylparaben: Common cosmetic food grade preservative that is anti-fungal and anti-microbial.

Polysorbate 60: A viscous, oily, water-soluble emulsifier enabling water & oil to mix. Used to stabilize perfumes in water-based preparations and act as a modifier and stabilizer of shampoos, liquid soaps and conditioners.

Polyquaternium 10: A seaweed starch that has been processed to change the electrical charge of the molecule. Used in shampoos and conditioners, it allows hair to be combed easily without static build up.

Rice Bran Oil (Oryza Sativa): Rice bran oil contains the highest amount of all natural vitamin E in liquid form. It is also rich in phytic and ferulic acids, which promote microfoliation (a gentle form of exfoliation) while helping balance melanin production. It also contains proanthrocyanidins, which protect collagen and elastin to ensure suppleness of the skin. Rice bran oil is particularly high in fatty acids. It is excellent for mature, delicate or sensitive skin. Rice Bran Oil is recommended for skin care and massage products. It's shelf life is six months to one year.

Safflower Oil - Oleic (Carthamus tinctoorius): Safflower oil is from safflower plant that is native to Mediterranean countries. It is obtained by pressing or solvent extraction. Safflower has one of the highest linoleic acid (70%) contents of all oils. A mono-unsaturated oil similar to Olive Oil. Extremely low in saturated fats. Also commonly used in cosmetics and body oils. Oleic Safflower Oil is produced by using a hybrid Safflower Seed that has an inherent greater oleic fatty acid, than linoleic. Since oleic is much less subject to oxidation than the linoleic acid, this oil is much more stable. The moisture content of human skin is proportional to the content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. Wonderfully moisturizing. Safflower Oil is recommended for use in skin care products and massage. It's shelf life is up to one year.

Sesame Seed Oil (Sesamum inducum): Made from sesame seeds. Contains natural antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, proteins, lecithin and amino acids. Traditionally used in the Indian Ayurvedic healing art. Sesame oil is high in unsaponifiables which is a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins, which soften the skin and have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. It is recommended for skin care and massage products. It has a shelf life of six months to one year.

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii): Shea butter is solid and comes from the natural fat obtained from the karite tree grown in West and Central Africa. Also referred to as karite butter. Shea butter is an emollient that is extremely therapeutic, helping to heal cracked, aged and damaged skin. Its chemical constituents help to heal bruising and soreness, and penetrates the skin and leaves it feeling soft and smooth. It has vitamin A, E and is highly compatible with skin. Shea butter has a high content of unsaponifiables and cinnamic esters, which have antimicrobial and moisturizing properties and provide protection from the UV rays of the sun. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins which soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Shea Butter is used for skin products, massage and soap making. It's shelf life is up to one year.

Sunflower Oil (Helianthus annus): Expressed from the seed of the Sunflower plant. It is rich in Vitamins A,C, D, and E. The high Vitamin E content makes this oil especially helpful for delicate and dry skin. Sunflower Oil has a protective effect on the skin. It is believed to have healing properties when applied to bruises and skin conditions.

Triethanolamine: A pH balancer used in cosmetics and body care products.



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